21 February Chennai
It felt good to sleep in a bit after yesterday’s very
long road trip. Although my room includes breakfast it didn’t materialize today.
In late afternoon I caught an ‘auto’—that’s what they call the little
three-wheel taxis here—to Mylapore. This ancient settlement goes back at least
to the first century B.C., long before the British East India Company took
possession in 1749. Today this part of Chennai is known for its many cultural
venues where one can find dance, music, or vocal concerts every evening. The
performances nearly always have free admission because cultural institutions get
such generous support. Mylapore also has major religious sites such as
Kapaleeshwarar Temple (Hindu) with its colorful towers, St. Thomas Cathedral
Basilica (Catholic) believed to be built over the tomb of Apostle Thomas, and
Luz Church (Catholic) that dates to 1516 and is one of the oldest European
monuments in India.
I headed to Apparswamy Temple, dedicated to Shiva
with a lingam in the main shrine. In the courtyard, a small stage with open-air
seating in front hosted a series of Bharatanatyam dances including a series by
Sanju, Susindar’s youngest daughter. Outdoor performances have the disadvantage
of being accompanied by mosquitoes, I found. Afterward I walked south to the
modest Sukha Nivas restaurant on Luz Church Road and had a Punjab thali.
22 February Chennai
Again I stayed at my hotel most of the day to work on
photo and other projects. In late afternoon I headed back to Mylapore for a
Carnatic (South Indian) vocal concert by Dr. Prema Rangarajan, supported by a
second vocalist, and musicians on a violin, mridangam (double-ended drum),
khanjira (tambourine), and tanpura (long-necked string drone). The performance,
held in a modest auditorium of Arkay Convention Center, lasted an incredible
three hours though instrumental solos by the violin, mridangam, and khanjira
provided breaks for the main vocalist. Again I ended up at Sukha Nivas
restaurant for a light late-night dinner.
23 February Chennai
Susindar picked me up in the morning and we drove to Mylapore for a tasty South
Indian breakfast at Mylai Shri Karpagambal Mess, a little café with the menu
written in Tamil on the walls. A short walk led to Chennai’s most active Hindu
place of worship, the 7th-century Kapaleeshwarar Temple, which we entered
through the lofty east tower. Susindar had picked up flowers and a small coconut
as an offering, then smashed the coconut in an outdoor receptacle. We walked
past the many small shrines that surround the central building. On one side
there’s a stable where cows receive loving care. On the other side a Hindu
marriage ceremony was underway in an open-sided hall, and we watched a
professional photographer line up the couple and their proud family for snaps.
Susindar then took me inside the main building for darshan (viewing) of a
standing image of Parvati then to the main shrine with Shiva as a lingam. Legend
tells of Parvati—Shiva’s consort—appearing in the form of a peacock and
worshipping Shiva here, giving the place its name Mylapore, ‘town of peacocks.’
Susindar then had to leave for an appointment, and I headed east on foot to
St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica, founded in 1523 by the Portuguese, then rebuilt
in 1896 by the British in neo-Gothic style. The dazzling white structure rises
near the sea and holds the tomb of Apostle St. Thomas, martyred nearby in A.D.
72 and regarded as the patron saint of India. I went down to the tomb, where a
church service in Tamil was underway, then entered the main church, very
peaceful underneath its soaring white spires. (Photography isn’t allowed in the
tomb or church.)
A short walk north brought me to Chennai Lighthouse,
where I paid entry and a photo permit to take the elevator to the viewing
platform for panoramic views of city and sea. This was my first time to go up,
and I enjoyed the great views. The lighthouse is still in operation and has a
radar antenna rotating at the very top.
Memories of British history
reside at Fort St. George Museum, still guarded by an array of cannons facing
the sea. I got an auto to cover the 5 kilometers north along the coast and
across the super-stinky Cooum River to the Fort St. George entrance, where I had
to go through security as this is still an administrative area, but now of the
Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly. Getting into the museum took a lot of effort
because I had to scan a QR code with my phone, fill out an online form with lots
of details, then pay the ticket price online. Inside, I could take photos with
my phone, but not with my real camera. The ground floor galleries display
armaments, uniforms, medals, and porcelain tableware so prized during colonial
times. Statues commemorate successful British leaders. There’s also a fine model
of the fort. A grand gallery upstairs features towering portraits of British
royals, military figures, and friendly native leaders. A smaller gallery offers
delightful prints of Fort St. George and other scenes of India.
Back in
Mylapore, I headed to Arkay Convention Center to catch a veena concert by a
young woman. I enjoyed the concert despite having very little experience in
listening to this large stringed instrument, which has such a distinct sound.
During a break in the performance at the one-hour, 40-minute mark, I caught an
auto over to R.K. Swamy Auditorium for a fine Bharatanatyam dance recital by B.
Sruthi, which had musicians on vocal and instruments unlike the recorded music
of the other dance performances I had been seeing in recent days. Afterward I
returned to Kapaleeshwarar Temple to see it lit up at night; lights in the small
shrines make them easier to see than during the day. Lastly I had a South Indian
dinner at Hotel Saravana Bhavan, a global chain that has a branch in Bangkok
that I visit.
24 February ChennaiA mysterious headache kept me in today.
I only headed out for a veggie steak sizzler dinner at nearby Eatalica, which
offers American and Italian cuisine with wacky names for each dish.
On to South of Chennai (India): Mamallapuram and Dakshina Chitra Heritage Museum