South India, Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) and Philippines Backpack 2023

Chennai (India): A Bit of Sightseeing and the Government Museum

27 February Chennai
In the morning I caught an auto to Susindar’s spacious home in a block of condominiums where I met him, his wife, and daughter Sanju. Susindar had ordered a take-out South Indian breakfast for us. Afterward I asked to see his wedding photos, which he brought out and explained the ceremony and reception. He told me that he once played the mridangam, the double-ended drum essential as the primary rhythmic accompaniment in Carnatic music, then brought out his instrument and played a few short sequences.
 
We went for a short drive, stopping first at the Krishnamurti Foundation campus, a pretty landscaped area with a large white building once the India home of philosopher, speaker, and writer Jiddu Krishnamurti (1895-1986). Today the building serves as a study center with an auditorium downstairs and a library with his books upstairs, a peaceful place to read and ponder his teachings. We stayed just a short time, then continued our journey, turning south across the wide Adyar River to the Theosophical Society, another forest-garden refuge from city life and with a famous banyan tree, but it was closed to entry. We turned east to the sea at a long beach with a beautiful soaring white Catholic church, the Annai Velankanni Shrine. Susindar often takes a morning walk to this area from his home. We stepped inside the pretty interior, illuminated with colorful stained glass windows that depict the Stations of the Cross. Next we visited and chatted with Susindar’s parents, now in their 80s yet living independently in their own apartment.
 
I returned to my hotel room for a rest, then headed in the late afternoon to Mylapore for two Bharatanatyam dance recitals at R.K. Swamy Auditorium. Susindar joined me here and we enjoyed the two solo performances, first by Anagha Tadepalli and the second by R. Harini. I brought my camera to capture some of the drama and color. After the performances we had a light South Indian dinner at Mylai Shri Karpagambal Mess. I got an idly and a plain uttapam, but when I got a taste of Susindar’s idiyappam (noodle dish) I ordered one too. Lastly Susindar dropped me off at my hotel.
 
28 February Chennai
Today’s weather had partly cloudy skies, a departure from the solid sunshine of previous days. After the hotel’s breakfast, I caught an Uber auto taxi north to Egmore for the Government Museum https://www.govtmuseumchennai.org/ to see its varied collections. I had last visited six years ago, but hadn’t seen everything, and looked forward to a day wandering through the colorful late-19th and early 20th-century buildings. Entry cost Rs. 250 plus another Rs. 200 for a camera permit. There’s much to photograph and I was glad to be able to use my camera; oddly signs prohibited use of cell phone photography. I started in the Contemporary Art Building, though little of the time-worn collection can be called ‘contemporary.’ Portraits of Indian leaders and freedom fighters spread across much of the ground floor and there’s a small gallery of late 20th-century paintings. Upstairs one corner has towering portraits of British governors, but more interesting are the colorful traditional paintings in many styles, including works by the painter Raja Ravi Varma (1848-1906), famed for his fusion of European academic art with Indian sensibility and iconography. Next I walked past the extravagant 1906 Indo-Saracenic-style National Art Gallery, though the interior has been closed since 2002. I skipped the nearby Children’s Museum.
 
I continued to perhaps the highlight of the museum, the Bronze Galleries Building, where artworks shine under (mostly) dramatic lighting. Shiva, his consort Parvati, and family inhabit the ground floor, overseen by a giant statue of Shiva as the divine cosmic dancer Nataraja performing the tandava dance. Upstairs there’s a line-up of more Nataraja along with many statues of Vishnu, his consorts, and family. The top floor has smaller images, including more of Vishnu and a small collection of Buddhist works.
 
Next I entered the huge Main Building where the first hall displays ancient stone sculptures, most in damaged condition, on two floors. There’s also a collection of inscribed copper plates strung on massive rings with seals from Chola kingdoms of a thousand years ago. An upstairs passageway leads to an impressively large collection of limestone medallions and reliefs from the Amaravati Stupa, a massive Buddhist monument built in Andhra Pradesh from the 3rd century B.C. to about A.D. 250. Next I entered vast halls of the Zoology Collection with a huge whale skeleton hanging from the ceiling. The cobra skeletons are neat to see as well, but most exhibits here are in poor condition. By chance I entered the geology gallery during the show of a growling and animated Tyrannosaurus rex followed by a Pterodactylus who flapped its wings high above, all this amazing to a group of school kids who sat on the floor. Oddly the geology gallery had few rocks or minerals on display, but did have a poor painting of the Grand Canyon!
 
Lastly I explored the Anthropology Building, though I found the venerable structure to be of far greater interest than the poor and neglected exhibits inside. The downstairs has displays of armaments and rows of poorly labeled prehistoric pots. A pair of grand staircases leads to the upper floor and galleries with sparse Indus Valley relics, a bit of folk art, and dusty musical instruments. But the real highlights are the grand staircases, the immense central hall upstairs, the painted parquet ceiling of the Indus Valley room, and the elaborate stained-glass windows. Cannons of many lands captured by victorious British stand guard outside the building.
 
I had spent about 5½ hours at the sprawling museum compound, a very full day of museuming. An auto took me southeast to Mylapore, where got a mini tiffen—a post-lunch South Indian thali with pongal, small masala dosa, idly sambar, and kesari (sweet)—at the Saravan Bhavan.
 
A short walk led to R.K. Swamy Auditorium, where I enjoyed a solo Bharatanatyam dance by Santhya Subramaniam, who greatly pleased the crowd with dramatic poses and movements. The second program—a group Bharatanatyam dance by disciples of Guru Sunitha Hari of the Kalanritya Arts Academy—didn’t have live musicians and the distorted and overly loud recorded music greatly detracted from the experience. I left after a trio and two solo dances. The neighboring Rasika Ranjani Sabha offered a vocal concert today, and it was still going when I entered the third-floor auditorium. Here five women singers would sing solo or duet or together along with a mridangam and violin. A white-haired woman, the guru, did a bit of reciting and singing as well, then led a prayer at the end. I got an auto back to my hotel area, then swung by Eatalica for a brownie topped with vanilla ice cream.
 
1 March Chennai
I intended to write a bunch of postcards while in India, and realized this was the day to do it, so I spent the morning writing 18. In the afternoon I walked to Nandanam Post Office, stopping on the way at the nearby Nandanam Metro station to check on the first train to the airport tomorrow morning. I confirmed that service would begin at 5 a.m., which would get me to the airport in plenty of time for the 8:05 a.m. departure. Getting stamps at the post office turned out to be a major production. The fellow at the window had no clue what the postage would be, so consulted with a woman who searched on her computer for a long while before reporting that each postcard would be Rs. 32 ($0.39), far cheaper than I would pay in Thailand or the U.S.A. A fellow at the post office insisted on pasting the stamps for each postcard, then dropped them in the mailbox outside. On the way back to my hotel I stopped at a supermarket for snacks and other supplies to take with me tomorrow.
 In the evening I caught an auto over to Susindar’s house and said goodbye to his wife and daughter. Susindar then took me to a Sangeetha restaurant, part of an international vegetarian chain. From the long menu he went with a light meal and I got the huge and varied North Indian thali, finishing with a butterscotch ice cream—all very tasty. Susindar dropped me off at my hotel and we said goodbyes until we meet again. I hope to return to Chennai during the December-January festival season when countless Indian classical music and dance performances take place!

On to Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia): A Week of City Sights

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