The Santa Catalinas, crowned by 9,157-foot Mt. Lemmon, rise in ragged ridges
from the north edge of Tucson to cool forests atop the higher slopes. A paved road,
the Catalina Highway/Sky Island Scenic Byway, winds high into the mountains past
many vistas and recreation areas. Down below, a tram ride or easy walk takes you
into Sabino Canyon, an oasis of greenery beneath rock walls dotted with saguaro
cactus. Catalina State Park offers trails and vistas beneath the imposing western
face of the Catalinas.
Be aware that mountain lions live in
the mountains and canyons! To reduce the danger of attack, hikers should pair up
and keep children close at hand.
Hikers can choose among trails
totaling over 150 miles in length and ranging from easy strolls to extremely difficult
climbs. Much of the hiking lies within the Pusch Ridge Wilderness, which protects
most of the western part of the range. Hikers in the wilderness must heed special
regulations to protect the desert bighorn sheep by not going more than 400 feet
off trail from January 1 to April 30, not bringing in dogs (service animals are
ok), and by limiting group sizes to 15 for day use or 6 camping. The Santa Catalina
Mountains topo map shows the main trails, distances, and trailheads; it's sold at
Forest Service offices and hiking stores. Volunteers and foresters of the Santa
Catalina Ranger District office provide information on the Santa Catalinas at the
Sabino Canyon Visitor Center (5700 N. Sabino Canyon Rd., Tucson, AZ 85750, 520/749-8700,
www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado, 8 a.m.-4:30
p.m. Mon.-Fri., 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun.)
History
In 1697, the tireless Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino
visited a Tohono O'odham village near what's now Tucson. He may have been the first
to name it, and the high ranges to the north and east, Santa Catarina. Spanish prospectors
found gold in Caņada del Oro, and they also reportedly mined gold in the Mine with
the Iron Door and silver in La Esmeralda, both lost mines lying somewhere in the
range. Raiding Apache discouraged mining until the late 1870s, when Anglo gold seekers
began placer operations in Caņada del Oro, tunneling into the hillsides. This canyon
and most of the other mining areas lie in the northern part of the mountains.
Mount Lemmon honors botanist Sara Lemmon, who, with her husband John, discovered
many species of plants on an 1881 expedition to the summit. As trails into the mountains
improved, the citizens of Tucson headed to the hills more often for the cool air
and scenery. The highway to the top, built largely by federal prisoners, opened
in 1951.
Catalina Highway/Sky Island Scenic Byway
In just an hour, this 40-mile
scenic drive from Tucson leaves the saguaro, palo verde, and cholla behind, passes
through woodlands of oak, juniper, and pinyon, enters pine forests at about 7,000
feet, then fir and aspen on the cool, north-facing slopes above 8,000 feet. Meadows
bloom with wildflowers in spring and summer. Superb panoramas and fanciful rock
pinnacles line much of the drive. Up on top, you'll enjoy camping, picnicking, and
hiking in the warmer months, skiing in winter. The many vista points and picnic
areas along the way offer places to stop but you'll need to bring water. Be sure
to fill up with gas before leaving Tucson, as none is available on the Catalina
Highway. It's also a good idea to check for road closures due to construction or
storms. For highway construction information, call 520/751-9405; for a weather forecast,
call 520/537-7510.
The drive begins from the northeast corner
of Tucson; head east on Tanque Verde Road, then turn left on the Catalina Highway.
After 4.3 miles, you'll enter the Coronado National Forest and the start of the
highway's mileposts. If driving, keep an eye out for cyclists who enjoy the challenging
ride. Unless you're going straight through to Summerhaven or Ski Valley, you'll
need a recreation pass from the Forest Service for use of any roadside parking areas,
picnic or camping areas, restrooms, trailheads, or vista points. Travel will be
free with a National Parks Pass if it has a hologram or if you have one of the Golden
Eagle, Age, or Access passes; otherwise entry is $5/day, $10/week, or $20/year per
vehicle. The recreation passes also include same-day visits to Sabino and Madera
Canyons. Passes can be purchased from a booth at Mile 5.1 on the Catalina Highway,
the entry booth at Sabino Canyon, as well as from Sabino Canyon Visitor Center,
Palisades Visitor Center, and some other vendors. Cyclists don't need a pass.
Babad Do'ag, the first signed vista point, is on the right at Mile 2.6. The
Tohono O'odham name means "Frog Mountain," which the Santa Catalinas resemble
when viewed from the south. All of Tucson Valley lies at your feet from this 3,450-foot
perch.
The highway climbs north between the rugged cliffs
of Molino Canyon to Molino Canyon Vista on your right at Mile 4.3. Two short
trails, one paved for wheelchair access, lead to viewpoints of the canyon; the seasonal
creek below cascades into pools. Look for the transformation of plants as the Sonoran
Desert begins to give way to oaks and grasslands.
Molino
Basin, on the left at Mile 5.7, is the first campground on the drive and 18
miles from downtown Tucson. Summers get hot at the 4,370-foot elevation, so it's
open only from late October to the end of April. You'll need to bring drinking water;
cost is $10/vehicle for picnicking and camping, though three picnic areas outside
the campground are free. Groups can reserve a large ramada for day use or camping
with the district office. Hikers can head north or south on the Arizona Trail.
Prison Camp Road, on the left at Mile 7.4, leads to Gordon Hirabayashi Recreation
Site. Either picnicking or camping costs $10/vehicle, but you need to bring
drinking water. A trailhead on the left just inside the gate and another at the
end of the road, one-third mile in, give access to the Arizona Trail and a variety
of hiking destinations. Horse corrals are at the end of the road. You'll see foundations
and other remnants of the prison camp established in 1930s; prisoners built much
of the Catalina Highway, a task that took 18 years to complete. The camp later housed
juvenile offenders until it closed and the buildings were razed in the mid 1970s.
Interpretive signs tell the story of the camp and its people. The present name honors
Gordon Hirabayashi, who challenged the constitutionality of internment and curfew
imposed on Japanese-Americans during World War II; the case went all the way to
the Supreme Court, but he lost and had to serve a sentence here.
In another mile, you'll pass Thimble Peak Vista on the left with fine views
west across Bear Canyon—the largest drainage of the Santa Catalinas. Seven
Cataracts Vista, 0.6 mile farther on the left, takes in a series of cascades.
(Note that these are different from Seven Falls, which are about four miles down
Bear Canyon.) Cypress and Middle Bear Picnic Areas on the right, then Chihuahua
Pine Picnic Area on the left lie tucked in the forest beginning at Mile 11.5.
General Hitchcock Campground, on the right at Mile 12, was closed at press time;
check with the visitor center to see if it has reopened. In another two miles you'll
come to Windy Point Vista on the left, which provides sweeping panoramas
of the Rincons, Santa Ritas, southern foothills of the Catalinas, and the Tucson
Valley. The granite pinnacles here attract rock climbers and camera buffs. Geology
Vista, a bit farther on the right, offers more pinnacles and good views to the
east and southeast.
Rose Canyon Lake lies at an elevation
of 7,200 feet amid ponderosa pines; turn left near Mile 17. Its seven acres offer
trout fishing and a half-mile lakeside trail, but no swimming or boating. The nearby
campground, 33 miles from downtown Tucson, is open Easter weekend to the end of
October and has drinking water, interpretive programs, and a $15/vehicle fee; you
can reserve sites and a group picnicking ramada at 877/444-6777,
www.recreation.gov. Day use runs $5/vehicle
for parking at the lake or picnicking.
You can see the Galiuros
and many other mountain ranges to the east from San Pedro Vista, on the right
0.4 mile beyond the Rose Canyon turnoff. Green Mountain Trail connects San
Pedro Vista with General Hitchcock Campground to the south. Allow three hours for
the four-mile (one-way) hike.
Palisades Visitor Center,
on the left at Mile 19.9, is open depending on staffing. Inside, you can see exhibits
on the many life zones that you're passing through; books and maps are sold. At
a trailhead one-quarter mile before the visitor center, you can hike to the top
of 8,550-foot Mt. Bigelow, a 1.5-mile roundtrip climb of 600 feet. The
Butterfly Trail also begins at this trailhead, winding through ponderosa pine,
Douglas fir, and juniper-oak woodlands to Butterfly Trailhead (Mile 22.8), 5.7 miles
one way to the northwest; allow 4-5 hours between trailheads.
Groups can reserve nearby Showers Point Campground at 877/444-6777,
www.recreation.gov. Primitive camping (no
facilities) is possible along Mt. Bigelow Road on the right, 1.1 miles beyond Palisades
Visitor Center, and at Incinerator Ridge; these areas receive heavy use, however.
Spencer Canyon Campground, on the left at Mile 21.7,
offers cool mountain air at an elevation of 8,000 feet; it's 38 miles from Tucson,
open May to mid-October, and has drinking water at a cost of $12/vehicle for camping,
$5/vehicle for day use.
One mile farther at an elevation of about 8,000 feet,
you'll pass Sykes Knob and Inspiration Rock Picnic Areas on the left, then Box Elder,
Alder, and Loma Linda Picnic Areas on the right. Aspen Vista Point, on the
right at Mile 23 between Sykes Knob and Inspiration Rock Picnic Areas, overlooks
the San Pedro Valley and many hills beyond; a copper mine is visible in the valley.
Control Road (Forest Road 38), on the right half a mile past Loma Linda and
one-third mile before the Ski Valley turnoff, offers an adventure for drivers with
high-clearance vehicles. The unpaved road bounces steeply down the northeast side
of the Catalinas, past Oracle Ridge Mine to Peppersauce Campground (described below).
The 21 miles to the campground takes about two hours, then the road continues another
eight miles to Oracle. The first nine miles is especially steep and rough—4WD
might be handy. Cars may be able to make it one-third mile down the Control Road
to a trailhead for the Arizona Trail/Oracle Ridge Trail #1, which winds north down
to Oracle in 12.5 miles one way. Winter snow usually closes the road.
Nearing Mile 25, you'll come to a highway junction; turn right 1.5 miles to Ski
Valley or continue straight a quarter mile for the village of Summerhaven.
The
Aspen Forest Fire devastated Summerhaven in the summer of 2003, and the community
will take years to rebuild. At press time only one cafe, the general store, and
the post office were in business. Mt. Lemmon Cafe (520/576-1234, daily for breakfast
in summer and lunch year-round) specializes in Pennsylvania Dutch cooking and pies,
with a large patio as well as indoor seating. The post office is next door.
A half mile beyond Summerhaven, you'll reach Marshall Gulch Picnic Area on the left.
(A gate blocks the road in winter, when you'll have to park outside and walk the
last bit.) A sign "Aspen Trail #93, Marshall Saddle 2.5," marks the start
of the 3.8-mile Aspen Loop Trail, which is open about May to October. The
trail climbs through an area burned in the Aspen Fire. At Marshall Saddle, turn
right down Marshall Gulch and walk 1.3 miles back to the picnic area.
The southernmost ski area in the United States, Mount Lemmon Ski Valley (520/576-1400
current ski conditions, 520/885-1181 business office, 520/547-7510 Pima County Sheriff's
road condition hotline), sweeps winter skiers and summer visitors from 8,200 to
9,157 feet on a double chairlift. During the ski season, about mid-December to mid-April,
skiers have a choice of 21 runs, including "bunny slopes" for beginners.
Lift tickets cost $35 per day ($30 half day) for adults, $16 ($14 half day) for
children 12 and under. After the ski season, you can take the Skyride ($9 adults,
$5 children 4-12) up to enjoy the views and cool forests. The ski area has a rental
shop, snack bar, fudge shop, and a gift shop near the lifts. The large decks provide
the venue for an October Fest with a German band, dancing, beer, and food on the
last two weekends of September and the first two weekends of October. Iron Door
Restaurant (across the highway with indoor and outdoor seating, Sat.-Sun. for breakfast
and daily for lunch) is renowned for its chili and cornbread.
A hiking trail, open about May to October, goes from the bottom of the ski lift
through fir and aspen forests to the summit in 1.5 miles one way. It's unsigned,
so ask someone to point out the start. You could also take the Skyride up and walk
down.
An all-weather forest road continues past Mt. Lemmon
Ski Valley to an infrared observatory near the top of Mt. Lemmon. Except in winter,
you may be able to drive 1.7 miles up the road to a trailhead for Mt. Lemmon Trail
and other high-country walks. The observatory area is gated.
Peppersauce Campground lies in a shallow canyon of the northeastern foothills
at an elevation of 4,700 feet. Large sycamore and walnut trees shade the sites,
which have water and cost $10/vehicle for camping or day use year-round. If all
spaces are taken, seek dispersed camping along Forest Road 29 starting opposite
the campground entrance. Groups can reserve an area through the district office.
From Oracle, head southeast 8.4 miles on Mount Lemmon Road/Forest Road 38.
Peppersauce Cave is an undeveloped limestone cavern 2.2 miles past the campground
turnoff on the road from Oracle. Despite the road warning sign, you can usually
negotiate this stretch in a car and reach the one-lane bridge, where you'll find
parking. Walk about 300 feet up the wash, then bear right along the second well-trod
path to the cave entrance. Take at least two flashlights per person and expect to
do some crawling in muddy passageways.
Sabino Canyon
Sabino Creek, deep in the southern foothills of the Santa
Catalina Mountains, begins its journey on the slopes of Mt. Lemmon, bouncing down
through the canyon and supporting the lush greenery and trees in which deer, javelina,
coyotes, bobcats, mountain lions, birds, and other animals find food and shelter.
At the entrance to the canyon, Sabino Canyon Visitor Center (520/749-8700,
www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado, 8 a.m.-4:30
p.m. Mon.-Fri., 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun.) has exhibits, scheduled nature walks,
and sales of books and maps. The self-guided, accessible Bajada Nature Trail
identifies desert plants on a loop behind the visitor center. The parking fee charged
here also covers the Catalina Highway; $5/day, $10/week, or $20/year per vehicle
unless you have a National Parks Pass (with a hologram) or if you have one of the
Golden passes. Sabino Canyon lies 13 miles northeast of downtown Tucson. Take Tanque
Verde Road to Sabino Canyon Road, then turn north and drive 4.5 miles to the canyon
entrance. An early arrival will beat the crowds. No pets, glass containers, or alcohol
are permitted in the canyon.
A road winds up through Sabino
Canyon for 3.8 miles, crossing the creek many times. Visitors enjoy birding, picnicking,
hiking, swimming and horseback riding. Private motor vehicles are prohibited beyond
the visitor center, but you can take a shuttle tram up the canyon. Bicycles cannot
enter on Wednesday and Saturday and from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. the rest of the week.
The shuttle leaves the visitor center every half hour 9 a.m.-4:30
p.m. daily (4 p.m. summer weekdays); fares are $7.50 adults, $3.50 ages 3-12. Call
520/749-2327 or visit www.sabinocanyon.com
to check schedules. The narrated ride lasts 45-50 minutes roundtrip; you can get
on and off as often as you choose at any of the nine stops.
The Forest Service provides picnic areas and restrooms, though you'll find drinking
water only at the visitor center and the first two stops. Visitors can bring a picnic
and spend all day relaxing by the water. Groups can reserve either of the Cactus
Ramadas one-quarter mile from the visitor center; contact the district office. Camping
is not allowed in the canyon; backpackers must hike at least a quarter mile in from
trailheads before setting up camp.
Hikers have a choice of
many destinations at the last stop, Stop 9: back to the visitor center via the Phone
Line Trail high on the east slopes of Sabino Canyon (5.5 miles one-way), to lower
Bear Canyon via Seven Falls (12 miles one-way), up the West Fork of Sabino Canyon
to Hutch's Pool (8.2 miles roundtrip), or to Mt. Lemmon's summit (13 hard miles
one-way).
Enjoy the special magic of Sabino Canyon on a moonlight
ride during full-moon evenings April-June and Sept.-November. Fees are the same
as the daytime shuttles, but reservations and prepayment are required, 520/749-2327.
Bear Canyon
This beautiful desert canyon east of Sabino features Tucson's
most popular hiking destination—Seven Falls, a series of waterfalls, each
with a pool at its base. Some of the pools are large enough for swimming, a great
way to cool off in the warmer months, though pools can completely dry up at times.
To reach the falls, you can either hike from the visitor center or take the Bear
Canyon shuttle for the first 1.5 miles. Bear Canyon Trail begins just south of the
Sabino Canyon Visitor Center, crosses some rolling foothills to Bear Canyon (1.5
miles one-way), then turns up the canyon to Seven Falls (3.8 miles total, one-way).
The trail continues 4.3 miles to connect with other trails in the Catalinas. On
the hike to Seven Falls you'll cross the creek seven times, make a gentle climb
onto the east hillside, then descend to the falls. The water-polished rock surrounding
the pools requires care in walking, as it's very slippery. Allow about 4.5 hours
for the roundtrip or 3.5 hours from the Bear Canyon shuttle terminus; elevation
change is 650 feet. Picnic tables nestle beside Bear Creek and at Bear Canyon Overlook
along the way.
Those who wish to skip the first 1.5 miles
of hiking can pick up the shuttle bus at the visitor center for the short ride east
to Bear Canyon; the canyon scenery doesn't begin until you leave the road, so there's
no point in taking this shuttle unless you plan on hiking. The shuttle (no narration)
leaves the visitor center every hour on the hour, daily 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; fare is $3
adults, $1 ages 3-12. Bicyclists may not ride into Bear Canyon because it lies in
Pusch Ridge Wilderness, but they may take the road to the mouth of the canyon and
continue on foot.