This remote area of the North Rim lies between Kanab Canyon to the east and the
Pine Mountains (Uinkaret Mountains) to the west. An overlook (elev. 4,552 feet)
provides awesome Canyon views from sheer cliffs nearly 3,000 feet high above the
river. Toroweap, also known as Tuweap or Tuweep, lies 140 road miles west of the
developed North Rim area of Bright Angel Point. You'll enjoy the amazing views,
hiking, and solitude. Although the area is in Grand Canyon National Park, no entry
or campground fees were charged at press time. Obtain hiking information, backcountry
permits, and emergency help at the Tuweep Ranger Station, open all year though the
ranger does take a few days off now and then. There's an emergency phone here. If
you'll need a backcountry permit, it's safer to obtain it beforehand, though you
could try for a last-minute permit here or at Pipe Spring National Monument.
Between 1.2 million and 30,000 years ago, eruptions of red-hot lava built about
60 volcanic cones here, even forming dams across the Colorado River. One of the
dams towered nearly 2,000 feet, but the river washed it away long ago. Pinyon pine,
juniper, cactus, and small flowering plants cover the plateau. Watch for rattlesnakes.
Hikers can enjoy many easy rambles near the rim, a difficult descent to the river
near Lava Falls, a scramble up Vulcans Throne, or multi-day trips on the Tuckup
Trail.
Toroweap Overlook
The views begin at road's end, where sheer cliffs
drop to the Colorado River. Mount Sinyala, a butte 25 miles east of the overlook,
marks the mouth of Havasu Canyon. Most of the Havasupai who live on the reservation
dwell in Supai village, nine miles up Havasu Canyon. The Hualapai Indian Reservation
lies directly across the Colorado River from the overlook. Vulcans Anvil, also known
as Vulcan's Forge or Thor's Hammer, rises in the middle of the river directly below.
This 50-foot-high lava neck is all that remains of an extinct lava vent.
Lava Falls, visible 1.5 miles downstream, roars with a vengeance. You can see it
from a point just one-eighth mile to the right from the overlook. Debris from Prospect
Canyon on the South Rim forms the rapids, perhaps the roughest water in the Grand
Canyon. Water flowing between 8,000 and 20,000 cubic feet per second drops abruptly,
then explodes into foam and spray. River-runners commonly rate these rapids a 10-plus
on a scale of 1–10. You can reach Lava Falls on a very steep and strenuous
hike, not recommended in summer (See
Lava Falls Route in the Inner
Canyon Hiking section).
Saddle Horse Canyon Trail
The trailhead for this easy hike lies beside
the main road 5.7 miles south of the ranger station. The path heads east to a Colorado
River overlook, then north with views of wonderfully weathered rock near Saddle
Horse Canyon; it's about 1.6 miles roundtrip.
Esplanade Loop Trail
This 2.9-mile hiking trail begins at the campground,
5.4 miles south of the ranger station.
Vulcans Throne
The 600-foot-high rounded cinder cone west of the overlook
is one of the youngest volcanoes in the area. There's no trail, but you can hike
to the top in about 1.5 miles roundtrip; it's most easily reached by road via normally
dry Toroweap Lake.
Toroweap Campground
Backed by low cliffs and overlooking small canyons,
this small campground is 5.4 miles past the ranger station and 0.9 mile before the
overlook at the end of the road. A couple of campsites may be available at the overlook,
too. There's no water, camping charge, or permit needed for the established sites.
Each site has an eight-person, two-vehicle limit; no reservations are accepted.
If all campsites are full, you must obtain the expensive backcountry permit for
other areas in the park or simply drive north and find an undeveloped spot on BLM
land. Bring lots of water, extra food, and camping gear.
Getting There
Three roads lead in to the area. The most popular one
begins at AZ 389, nine miles west of Fredonia; turn south 40 miles on County 109
at the sign for "Toroweap 61," continue straight seven miles on County
5, and straight 14 miles on County 115. These dirt roads are usually in good condition
when dry but have washboard sections. Watch for livestock and take it slow through
washes and cattleguards. The last few miles are slow and rocky, but careful drivers
should make it. The Tuweep Ranger Station is on the left 6.3 miles before the overlook.
Beyond the ranger station, Toroweap Point (elev. 6,393 feet) towers on the left;
dumpy Vulcans Throne (elev. 5,102 feet) sits on the right.
You can also drive to Toroweap on a 90-mile dirt road from St. George (BLM Road
1069 and Country 5 for 76 miles, then right 14 miles on County 115) or a 58-mile
road from Colorado City (County 5 for 44 miles, then continue straight 14 miles
on County 115). Avoid driving these roads after heavy rain or snow, especially the
route from Colorado City. Snows usually block the road from St. George between October
and May. Water, food, and gas are not available in this country. Bring a map—the
BLM's Arizona Strip one is best—as signs may be missing at some junctions.