15 November Tamarind Guesthouse (Kanchanaburi town)
20.2 kilometers
Again we had pleasant temperatures under partly cloudy skies, no rain, and
occasional headwinds. Chris gave us an extra hour to sleep in with breakfast at
8 a.m. On the water we saw lots of birds, especially white egrets, while kites
circled high above. The current was barely noticeable, as was the two kilometers
upriver on the Khwai Yai at the end.
Morning view from
our resort with tilapia farms on both shores,
although the one on the near
shore does not have its netting tanks installed.
Limestone mountains
ahead have caves, and we look forward to visiting Wat Tham Khao Pun.
We made a short rest stop, then
continued to the cave temple Wat Tham Khao Pun, high atop a hill. Entry cost 30
baht, and that paid for electric lighting and smooth paths. Steps descended into
a chamber filled with a reclining Buddha and many other statues. Mainly dry cave
features decorated the series of chambers. A seated Buddha resided in the final
chamber, then steps led up and out to a photo exhibit of Allied prisoners of war
who worked on the Japanese World War II Death Railway. Chris, Chow, and
Matilde climbed to a golden chedi atop the hill. I joined several of the group
at The Curve, a glass-walled coffee shop with a fine view of the Khwae Noi River
and surrounding mountains. I went for a passion fruit shake and a thick-crust
spinach pizza.
We near the dock
for Wat Tham Khao Pun.
A helpful demon
points the way to the cave entrance.
Down we go!
A Buddha statue
reclines in the first chamber.
The image glitters
with gold leaf.
A naga keeps an eye on things.
I think this mudra
represents the Buddha gazing in appreciation at the Bodhi tree after he realized
enlightenment.
This long vertical shaft goes up to a natural skylight.
The colorful final
chamber
View
back upriver from The Curve coffee shop
After descending concrete steps back to the river, we
continued a short distance to the stop for Chong Kai Allied War Cemetery, built on
the site of a major prisoner of war camp used during construction of the Death
Railway. Allied soldiers constructed a hospital, church, and a burial ground,
now immaculate flower-decorated grounds with graves of 1,426 British and 313
Dutch prisoners of war who died during World War II.
The Cross of
Sacrifice honors the Christians buried here.
The Commonwealth
War Graves Commission looks after the cemetery.
We reached the city
of Kanchanaburi at the confluence of the Khwai Noi and Khwai Yai, which become
the Mae Klong that flows southeast to the Gulf of Thailand. A strange
bridge-like structure on the far shore caught my eye, and Mathilde and I went
over for a close look. It’s the Kanchanaburi Skywalk, a raised walkway with a
glass floor. We admired the Skywalk from below as we slowly paddled up along the
Khwai Yai. Meanwhile Chris and Chow began worrying about us and came back to see
if we needed a tow. But we were fine and continued a couple kilometers up the
Khwai Yai with views of the beautiful round Wat Thaworn Wararam and other temple
buildings to our raft house, where we conveniently parked in front beside a
lotus garden. To our surprise, Areeya was there snapping pictures of us. She had
come out with the truck to pick up the kayaks, which Chris and Chow valiantly
hauled up the long staircase to the road.
Kanchanaburi
Skywalk looks impressive from below!
This arm of the
Skywalk extends upstream.
We admired the
elegant architecture.
And took many
photos.
We
planned to return tomorrow to walk on the Skywalk.
A very little boy
rides a very big fish near the Skywalk.
Wat Thaworn
Wararam, which I also plan to visit tomorrow.
The lotus garden in
front of our raft rooms
For dinner we went to my
favorite restaurant in town, On’s Thai-Issan Vegan, except for Chow who grazed
at the market and Iew who likes to eat her own food for dinner. The group liked
the food despite it being entirely vegan. I had a spicy Penang curry with brown
rice, then cooled off with a lime soda water and a mango shake.
Lieneke and Hans at On’s Thai-Issan Vegan