8 Feb. Taman Negara
The giant national park Taman Negara in north-central Malaysia had long
intrigued me, and I made plans to visit. Part of the appeal is the journey up a
river to park headquarters. I purchased the combined minibus-boat ticket online
for $21.35, which is cheaper than buying at the office. The minibus headed out
on expressways over a cloud-shrouded pass to Pahang state, the largest of
peninsula Malaysia, then turned northeast to Kuala Tembeling. Here I had an hour
for lunch and to buy the Taman Negara entrance ticket (just RM1!) and camera
permit (RM5).
The boat ride up the Tembeling River wove through jungle-clad hills and the odd
settlement, a very relaxing way to experience the scenery and greenery for
nearly four hours. I had used Booking.com to make a reservation at Jai Guest
House in the little town of Kuala Tahan, just across the river from the park
office. I paid MR70/night for a simple room including a private bath,
air-conditioning, and desk.
In the evening I shuttled across the river on a small boat (MR1) for a night
jungle trip. Our guide knew where to look for critters and he found a little
frog hidden in a log, a centipede, scorpion, and a gecko. When he turned on a UV
light the scorpion glowed bright green, and our guide easily located others.
9 Feb. Taman Negara
I took a rest day, hanging out in the guesthouse to play on the internet and
work on writing and photo projects.
10 Feb. Taman Negara
At park headquarters I bought a ticket for the Canopy Walkway, then headed there
on a nice boardwalk trail upstream beside the river. A family of macaques
foraged on the jungle floor and in the trees. On the way I detoured on the Swamp
Loop, also a fine boardwalk trail. I registered at the Canopy Walkway, then
climbed stairs to the first narrow cable bridge, one of a series fastened to the
highest trees, which reach 45-55 meters. It’s said to be one of the longest in
the world at about 500 meters. I enjoyed the views of the canopy both below and
above. Luckily I was the only person at the time so I could shuffle along slowly
to admire the plant life and take photos. Next I headed inland on a steady climb
to the top of 344-meter Teresek Hill and fine views of seemingly endless jungle
hills that faded into the distant haze.
The sensible way down would have been to go back the way I had come or take side
trails off it. Instead I continued straight down a steep and root-entangled path
that eventually meandered to the Tahan River, a major tributary of the
Tembeling. Motorized canoes shuttled visitors up and down the pretty stream. I
stopped at the popular beach and swimming hole of Lubuk Simpon, then continued
downstream to the confluence with the Tembeling and park headquarters. By now it
was dinner time and I tried the RM50-dinner buffet at Seri Mutiara Restaurant in
the adjacent resort. It had a tasty mix of Malay and Western food including
vegetarian items.
11 Feb. Taman Negara
Today I made another loop hike, and a bit more challenging. I followed the
boardwalk trail along the Tahan River to Lubuk Simpon, then turned inland on a
small and rougher trail that led to the Teresek Hill trail and back down to the
Canopy Walkway. I had enjoyed yesterday’s visit so much that I did it again.
Down by the Tembeling River I turned upriver and met a monitor lizard. I stood
still and expected the sharp-toothed creature to run away, but instead it came
right up to my feet and sniffed with its flicking tongue before wandering off
into the woods.
The boardwalk had ended, leaving a narrow and rough trail. Two young fellows
with a guide came the other way and looked frazzled. They had started from Kuala
Trenggan, about 9 kilometers upriver from park headquarters, and had found the
trail tough going. I did too, but had a much shorter hike to the turnoff for
563-meter Indah Hill, 2.7 kilometers from park headquarters, then a very steep
climb of 500 meters to a lookout point. Here I took a much needed rest while
admiring the view of the Tembeling River below. I don’t think this was the
summit, but was far enough for me. I returned to park headquarters and another
dinner buffet at the resort.
12-13 Feb. Taman Negara
The two loop hikes had taken in the main highlights of
the park, and anything else would be a very tough hike or expensive boat ride
away. I had hoped to visit one of the park’s caves, but the only one nearby, Gua
Telinga, was closed. So I did computer stuff and returned to the resort for one
more dinner buffet.
Back to beginning of Southeast Asia Backpacking Jan.-April 2018