Nestled among pine-forested hills and expansive meadows at an elevation of 6,780
feet, Williams proudly proclaims itself "Gateway to the Grand Canyon." The town
(pop. 2,800) offers a better choice of accommodations and restaurants at lower prices
than those at the Grand Canyon, which lies just 58 miles north. The exceptionally
well-preserved downtown recalls a bygone era when people moved at a slower pace
and when Route 66 carried motorists across the West.
In yet another reminder of the past, the popular Grand Canyon
Railway puffs its way north to the Grand Canyon daily from the old station downtown.
Also, try not to miss the pretty country surrounding Williams—splendid
Sycamore Canyon, tall volcanoes, small fishing lakes, forest drives, and hiking
trails. Fans of Route 66 can drive segments of the old highway east of Williams
and mountain bike two loops on old alignments west of town; the Visitor Information
Center and the Forest Service office have brochures with maps.
History
Charles Rodgers, the first white settler here, started a cattle operation in
1878. The railroad town founded several years later took its name from Bill Williams
Mountain just to the south. The mountain in turn honored mountain man Bill Williams,
who roamed the West from 1825 until his death at the hands of Utes in 1849. He earned
reputations as a skilled marksman, trapper, trader, and guide—and, some say, as
an accomplished horse thief, preacher of profane sermons, and prodigious drinker.
An 8.5-foot statue of "Old Bill" stands in Monument Park at the west end of downtown.
Today the Bill Williams Mountain Men perpetuate his adventurous
spirit. The group dons buckskin clothing and fur hats, stages a 180-mile horseback
ride from Williams to Phoenix most years, and works to keep the history of the mountain
men alive. The Buckskinners, a family-oriented group, puts on frontier-era garb
for black-powder shoots.
A more recent period of Western history came to an end at Williams
in October 1984, when I-40 bypassed the last section of old US Route 66. A sentimental
ceremony, complete with songwriter Bobby Troup of "Route 66" fame, marked the transition.
The famous highway from Chicago to Los Angeles had carried many families to a new
life in Arizona and California. Its replacement, I-40, now travels an unbroken 2,400-mile
path from Durham, North Carolina, to Barstow, California. Local businesses suffered
when traffic bypassed Williams, but they have since bounced back as travelers stop
in town to sample the history and hospitality.
Grand Canyon Railway
Passenger trains first steamed out of Williams to the Grand Canyon's scenic
splendor in 1901, replacing an expensive and arduous stage ride. Railroad service
ended with the last passenger train carrying just three customers in 1968, but it
started anew after a 21-year hiatus. Once again, Canyon visitors can enjoy a relaxing
ride through the forests and ranching country of northern Arizona to the historic
log depot in Grand Canyon Village, just steps away from the rim. Grand Canyon Railway
(800/843-8724 "800-THE-TRAIN," www.thetrain.com)
runs trains pulled by vintage diesels roundtrip daily except December 24 and 25
from the 1908 Williams Depot downtown; the depot is half a mile south from I-40
Exit 163 on Grand Canyon Boulevard, or it can be reached via either of the other
two I-40 Williams exits to downtown. Wheelchair users can access the depot and some
of the train.
The restored 1923 Harriman coaches have reversible seats; roundtrip
fare is $58 adults, $25 ages 2–16. You can also luxuriate in four additional categories:
Club Class (same as coach but with a bar and complimentary morning coffee, juice
and pastries) for $79, $46 ages 2–16; First Class (oversized reclining chairs, air-conditioning,
extra-large windows, continental breakfast, and afternoon appetizers and champagne
or sparkling cider) for $116, $83 ages 2–16; Deluxe Observation Class (First Class
with dome views; ages 11 and up only) for $137, $104 ages 11–16; or Luxury Parlor
Car (First Class with seating in overstuffed divans and an open-air rear platform)
for $147, $114 ages 2–16. One-way fares are available too. Add tax and park entry
fee (let reservations staff know if you have a park pass). The Grand Canyon Railway
also offers packages with train tickets, a room at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel,
and some meals, with options for Grand Canyon tours and accommodations.
Before the ride starts, you can take in the Grand Canyon Railway
Museum, outdoor train exhibits, and a Wild West show; all these are free and open
to the public. The depot also has a coffee bar, gift shop, and nearby Max and Thelma's
restaurant.
Recommended check-in is 8 a.m. or earlier, in time to have breakfast,
see the museum and Wild West show, and board the train for its 10 a.m. departure.
The train arrives at Grand Canyon, across the street from El Tovar Hotel and canyon
rim, about 12:15 p.m. Boarding time for the return trip is 3:15 p.m. for a 3:30
p.m. departure and 5:45 p.m. arrival back in Williams. South Rim tours are available
at extra cost when you make reservations. The three hours at the Grand Canyon is
enough for only a quick look, so you may wish to arrange to stay and ride back another
day.
Once underway, you will be entertained by strolling musicians
and Wild West characters. On the return trip you can expect a little excitement
during a staged horseback chase and train robbery before "the law" catches up with
the outlaws.
Other Downtown Sights
Stroll along Route 66 downtown to soak up the atmosphere. The commercial buildings
here remain much as they were decades ago. Many of the shops have restored interiors
and selections of Native American work, antiques, or Route 66 memorabilia. Railroad
Avenue also has some fine old structures.
You can see prehistoric Native American artifacts and exhibits
of town history and forestry in the Visitor Information Center (200 W. Railroad
Ave., 928/635-4061 or 800/863-0546, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, to 6:30 p.m. daily in summer,
free).
Bearizona
See many of America's famous wildlife on this drive-through park (1500 E. Rt. 66,
928/635-2289, www.bearizona.com/, $10 +
tax children 4-12 years, $20 + tax adults, $18 + tax seniors 62 and older). Highlights
include Rocky Mountain goats, Dall sheep, wolves, bison, and, of course, bears.
A walking area has smaller creatures, including birds of prey and bear cubs. If
you arrive by motorbike or bicycle, you get to use a free car. The park is open
every day except Christmas, though hours change seasonally; check the website for
the current timings and for daily adventure shows. It's on the east side of Williams,
just south of the I-40 turnoff for the Grand Canyon: from I-40 Williams/Grand Canyon
Exit 165, go south for 0.25 mi. and Bearizona is immediately on your left.
Buckskinner Park offers picnicking, hiking, and reservable group ramadas
one mile south from Route 66 via 6th Street. Buckskinner Trail #130 begins
here and heads west to Clover Spring in 0.5 mile one way and connects with the
Clover Spring Loop #46 for a total of two miles roundtrip; it's a moderate
hike with some hills. You can also hike the Clover Spring Loop and other
trails from the Bill Williams Mountain Trailhead beside the Williams Ranger District
Office. The Forest Service's four campgrounds (see Accommodations) offer picnicking
options farther out from town; Dogtown has a free picnic area, but there's a $5
day-use fee if you use tables at any of the campgrounds.
Mountain Ranch Stables (behind the Quality Inn, 928/635-0706) offers a variety
of trail rides from one hour to overnight, year-round; it's just south of I-40 Pittman
Valley Exit 171, six miles east of Williams. Stable in the Pines (beside
the Circle Pines KOA, 928/635-1930) has summer horseback riding; it's three miles
east at I-40 Exit 167, then east 0.4 mile on the north frontage road.
Play golf on the rolling greens of the 18-hole Elephant Rocks Golf Course
(928/635-4935, about mid-March to mid-Nov.). Go west on Railroad Avenue across I-40
(or take I-40 Exit 161 and head north), drive 1.5 miles, turn right at the entrance,
and continue past natural boulders that resemble a herd of elephants.
Downhill-ski in winter at the small Elk Ridge Ski and Outdoor Recreation
Area (928/814-5038, www.elkridgeski.com)
four miles south of town on Bill Williams Mountain, which offers a 2,000-foot poma
lift (600 vertical feet), 700-foot rope tow for the beginners' slope, lessons, snack
bar, rental shop, and ski shop. The season runs approximately mid-Dec. to late March;
call for conditions. Turn south 2.2 miles on Fourth Street, then right at the sign.
Spring Valley Cross-Country Ski Trail has three loop possibilities of 6.5-8
miles each, rated easy to moderate; the season at the 7,480-foot-plus elevations
runs winter to early spring. Spring Valley is 14 miles east to I-40 Parks Exit 178,
then north six miles on Forest Road 141; Forest Service offices have a ski trail
map. Undeveloped cross-country ski areas include Sevier Flat and Barney Flat on
the way to Williams Ski Area and the White Horse Lake area.
Oak Hill Snowplay Area is eight miles east of town on I-40 to the Pittman
Valley Road/Deer Farm Exit 171, then east 2.4 miles on Route 66 on the north side
of I-40. Only inner tubes and other flexible materials may be used. Separate runs
accommodate tubers and skiers.