India December 2023 to January 2024
Kolkata and Chennai

Chennai: Indian Classical Music and Dance, Ending the Year with a Walk, Dinner, and Ceremony at the Theosophical Society

 

25 December Chennai
I returned to Mylapore on my own and started with a late ‘tiffen’ lunch at Saravana Bhavan before heading over to Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan for a pair of evening performances. Srekala Bharath & Thejas presented “Thirukutrala Kuravanji,” a group of eight Bharatanatyam dancers including the guru/choreographer. Meenakshi Chitharanjan then offered a solo Bharatanatyam performance, “When the Arrow Strikes,” and I appreciated that she gave short explanations in English before each dance. Afterward I enjoyed a light dinner at Nithya Amirtham, another of the large restaurants in Mylapore.
 
26-27 December Chennai
I took a few rest days and stayed closer to my accommodations. Although Mylapore has lovely performances and the big Kapaleeshwarar Temple, the extreme traffic congestion had become very tiring. Susindar was busy serving on a panel for an awards program to be held on the 29th. The Italian restaurant Basil with a Twist, very close to my room, fixes a wonderful pumpkin soup, which I have every time I go there. On the 26th I got the soup plus a thin-crust mushroom spinach pizza, then concluded with a tiramisu.
 
28 December Chennai
Bharat Kalachar—one of the many festival venues—is just 500 meters from where I’m staying. It’s now hosting its 35th Margazhi Mahotsav 2023-2024 with an extensive offering of music and dance programs in the large open-sided auditorium. As a bonus, I could take photos of the performances. I headed over in the afternoon for a vocal recital by Kalyanapuram Aravind accompanied by violin, mridangam, and ghatam (clay pot played as a drum), which attracted a sparse yet appreciative audience. The evening event had a huge cast and a large enthusiastic audience for Urmila Sathyanarayana’s Natya Sankalpaa ensemble’s Bharatanatyam dance drama “Thadathagai—The Eternal Queen of Madurai.” None of the narration was in English, but the story clearly showed the triumph of good over evil, with people seeming to live happily ever after at the end.


The huge cast comes out at the conclusion of “Thadathagai—The Eternal Queen of Madurai.”

29 December Chennai
In the evening I returned to Bharat Kalachar for a group Bharatanatyam of Dr. Radhika Shurajit’s “Kandha-Kadamba-Kadhirvela,” a Natya Production of Kandha Shasti Kavacham. I enjoyed the performances, though the audience was much smaller than last night. The announcer suggested that people in the back are welcome to move to the front, which I did for a better view.
 
30 December Chennai
In the afternoon I had a late lunch of pumpkin soup and hummus & pita at Basil with a Twist, then walked over to Bharat Kalachar to hear Ambri Subramaniam play violin solos of works by his father along with artists on the mridangam, morsing (similar to a Jew’s harp), and ghatam.


Ambri Subramaniam, violin soloist

Sheela Unnikrishnan, founder-director of the Sridevi Nrithyalaya Dance School, then presented the dance drama “Srinivasa Kalyanam.” The story tells of Vishnu, who incarnated as Srinivasa, meeting a beautiful girl named Padmavati, an incarnation of Laxmi. They fell in love, yet only after overcoming many complications could their grand wedding (kalyanam) take place.


Hindu sages at the dramatic opening of “Srinivasa Kalyanam”


The audience loved this pair of cows!


There seems to be a lot going on here.


Garuda, vehicle of Vishnu, writes wedding invitations.


Srinivasa takes flight atop Garuda .


The wedding ceremony


Flower petals fly in celebration.


The cast comes onstage at the conclusion of the performance.

31 December Chennai
To celebrate the last day of 2023 I joined Susindar at his home for a long walk in the late afternoon. The small lanes of his neighborhood were fine for a stroll, but then we had to go on busy roads—not my idea of a place to go for a walk. We did have a wide sidewalk for the long bridge over the broad Adyar River. On the other side of the river we came to the main entrance for the vast wooded park of the Theosophical Society. Despite a NO VISITORS sign we headed through the gate and nobody questioned us. I turned out that a convention was taking place now, so the security people probably thought we were part of that. We followed paved lanes past scattered buildings and parks in the forest, stopping to hear a group of singers presenting popular and traditional songs in an open-sided auditorium. We continued east to the far end of the grounds, then followed a dirt path beside the Adyar River back to the main area. Susindar wished to join the conventioneers for dinner, which turned out to be a traditional style event with people seated along one side of long narrow tables, then servers would bring South Indian vegetarian foods and plop servings onto our banana leaves. The dinner turned out to be very tasty, well worth the Rs. 100 ($1.20). Afterward an elderly gentleman invited me to join a ceremony in a nearby hall. Here a circle of people dressed in blue and white lit candles, then took turns doing readings in English from texts of major religions of the world. Meanwhile, Susindar had begun the walk home. I wasn’t keen on walking the busy roads at night, so got an auto taxi back to my room. Street dogs hung out in the neighborhood and seemed a bit aggressive this evening, probably unnerved because of firecrackers going off. Scattered fireworks peaked at midnight to celebrate the ushering in of 2024.


An enjoyable stroll on the grounds of the Theosophical Society


Evening ceremony of the Theosophical Society

On to Chennai: Ringing in the New Year with South Indian Cuisine, a Visit to the Government Museum, and Lots of Indian Classical Music and Dance

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